A few years ago I didn’t know where Madeira was – then over the last few years, a number of people who know me said I would love it so I decided to head out this February and see what it was all about. To say I wasn’t disappointed is an understatement. It was all they said plus more. If you enjoy trails (for hiking, running or biking) then this is the place for you. I hadn’t much time to research before I went out but found one blog that helped me shape the trip so thought it would be nice to pay it back and share my experiences in the hope it will help others too.
Day 1:
Arrived in Madeira (lovely small airport, fab views of the sea as you exit), picked up rental car and headed for Funchal which was a short drive (about 20 minutes) away. Got our first taste of the narrow and steep roads as google decided to take us on the ‘scenic’ route! Walked around the city and enjoyed eating outdoors.
Day 2:
After been warned about the busy trails, we got up early and headed to the Levado do Risco – Cascata das 25 Fontes for a 16.5km hike. To our delight we were the first car in the car park at about 7:30am. Like everywhere in Madeira, there are lots of trail options here – we did a loop trail here with a few off shots to see the waterfalls. There is a descent into the forest and the main features to see are the Cascata das 25 Fontes and the Levado do Risco but there are lots of other smaller water features on the trails. There is lovely variety here and lots of shade from the trees. The trail is narrow in parts which wasn’t an issue for us but could be at busier times with two-way traffic. By the time we got back to the car park five hours later it was jammers!
We spend the afternoon exploring the Northern part of the island and stopped off at Porto Moniz for lunch and enjoyed watching the wild waves and the natural pools of basaltic lava that drain into the ocean. The pools were closed but looked like it would be fun on a summers day. We then headed to cable car to go down to Achadas da Cruz but just missed the last cable car (think the last one was at 3:30pm). The was a nice little coffee shop at the teleferico with lovely views and also the start of many trail runs from there. Getting the cable car down would have fab sea views and there is a flat coastal walk in Achadas da Cruz (next time!).
We then drove back to Funchal by the coast – lots of tunnels and the roads weren’t so bad (beware – some parts of the island have very steep gradients and can be very narrow). We stopped off at the glass viewing point in Cabo Girao, which has become Instagram famous! It is Europe’s highest promontory at 580m high. Back then to Funchal for the evening.
Day 3:
Day exploring Funchal – did a morning walk from the city up along the coast (Promenade do Lido) with fab views, passed Ronaldo’s museum, fancy hotels and a public pool by the oceanside (didn’t have swimsuit unfortunately!)
Got the cable car up to Monte and visited the Tropical Gardens and went to see the toboggans made of wicker that take you on a ride back down to Funchal – wasn’t too disappointed that they didn’t operate on Sundays!
Did a food shop and headed off to our next location in Guala which was a lovely apartment overlooking the sea and close to the airport (Cliff Residence). This was the perfect base for the rest of the trip.
Day 4:
Headed to Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourence (PR8) which was my favourite trail as it was coastal. Another early start but not early enough as it turned out! There were about 10/15 cars there before us when we arrived at 7:30ish, they had been there for the sunrise which would have been nice (they were just off the trail on the hill to the right). The trail is an out and back (about 10km) and was lovely and quite on the way out and just spectacular. There is a steep offshoot at very last part up to a viewing point which was closed as the steps were damaged but it is still walkable though a bit steep on the descent. Worth it for the view I would imagine ; )
On our return the trail was starting to get busy – I spotted kayaks in the water and ended up negotiating a couple of kayaks to enjoy a brief sojourn on the sea – it was lovely seeing the coast from the water (company was Madeira Sea Emotions if you want to book).
It was getting quite warm so found a side route to a beach (Sao Lourenco Beach) and had a refreshing swim – the waves were rough and the beach rocky so not ideal if you aren’t comfortable with that.
By the time we got back to the car, the car park was packed and there were crowds everywhere. It is one of the most popular routes and worth doing but go early to this one for sure!
Drove to a lovely beach (Prainha do Canical) only a few minutes away (there is a car park by the side of the road and a steep walk down to it) and relaxed in the water and on the beach for the afternoon.
Day 5:
Another very popular trail and even more popular for sunrise viewing is the Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo (PR1). Fortunately, the night before I had read that part of it was closed so was prepared to find an alternative. We said we would head up for the sunrise and at least do what we could of it. Definitely a good spot for sunrise but consider these tips as it is very crowded! Go early and enjoy the night sky – it was so clear and beautiful when we arrived, even more amazing than the sunrise.
Lots of people (literally bus loads) arrived to Pico do Areeiro to watch the sunrise – I would suggest starting on the trail and going to the first viewing point (Miradouro do Ninho da Manta) as there were only a few people there and the view was just as good. This gives you a head start on the trail too. Check to see if the full trail is open though if going – would love to go back to do it, sounds adventurous with tunnels and steep climbs. This was the one place that I saw them checking payment for the trails.
As an alternative we did a lovely hike in a different direction from Pico do Areeiro and met only 4 people on it! Think it was the PR6 but it headed up to Cedro and there were lovely views from there. Took an alternative trail back to make it a loop but ended up scrambling down a steep descent (was an adventure!) and eventually got back to the car to round off a 10km hike.
Late afternoon then we headed to the nearby coastal village of Machico and did a tough 4km (steep ascent on tired legs!) – finding parts of the trail was tricky and at one point I flagged down a car and took a lift with a local. Had to make a quick escape though as quickly realised he was very drunk and swerving side to side on the narrow descent – a quick Obrigado and out the door as soon as the car slowed enough! Found the trail again and finally made it back to Mochico to celebrate being alive with the local Poncha drink!
Day 6:
Went canyoning with Epic Madeira – would highly recommend for something different and the canyons are stunning. Did the intermediate level and there were only two of us on the trip (another advantage of going in Feb!) which was good as I was getting quite cold (water was refreshing!) so with a large group I think it might have been too cold for me with the waiting around.
Did a nearby hike then which was very enjoyable. Again just asked the canyoning guys for a recommendation for a local hike near where we were and we did a 7km loop trail around Ribeiro Frio which was lovely and again not crowded. Waterways and forests and a nice variety. Be careful where you park as we were on the side of the road in a long line of cars but when we came back we were the only car left on the road (just around a bend!) Had lovely late lunch in the restaurant there.
Day 7:
The last day we did the Verada do Larano to Boca do Risco – we were intending to do a loop trail but ended up turning as trail was hard to find and parts were damaged due to a storm and rain and wind came in so being at the top of a cliff with muddy underfoot wasn’t the best situation : )
I would definitely recommend this as an out and back trail (about 10km) and it is less busy that the other more popular trails. The trail follows along a cliffside offering views over dramatic cliffs and the ocean. It’s mostly flat along an exposed cliffside, in parts there isn’t protection but the surrounding trees give a sense of security so it’s not scary (unless you have a fear of heights).
Top Tips:
– Get to the trails early!
– Be aware of hiking fees on the more popular trails, you will spot a sign with a QR code at the entrance to the trails, it is €3 per person and a fine if you don’t have proof of payment. I only every spotted a check one on hike (entrance to the PR1)
– Don’t be afraid to try the lesser known trails – just use a reliable app (I like AllTrails) or get good maps and off you go
– Use cut-off trousers as weather varies and a lot and in Feb the mornings and evenings were cool, also saves on packing space!
– Bring ziplock bags to take away and tissues you might use on the trails
– Bring a watertight phone pouch that you can wear over your neck. If you are following along a route on your phone you will need to have it accessible so you are hands free
– Bring suncream, even if cloudy sun was getting through
– Consider using hiking poles – it was my first time and found them helpful especially on descents, I only used one most of the time
– Bring gloves – mornings were cold and if using poles especially your hands are exposed
– Have a waterproof cover for your backpack in case of rain
– Pin your cars location, especially if doing a less popular trail or need assistance to get back
– Read current reviews of trails before you start them in case parts are closed or damaged after storms
– Get to the trails early – yes I know I mentioned it already but can’t say it enough : )
Links:
Madeira Kayaks – www.madeiraseaemotions.com
Canyoning – www.belocalmadeira.com
Booklets and maps of popular walks/hikes www.VisitMadeira.com
Vegan recommendations:
Prima Caju in Funchal (gluten-free options too) – https://www.primacaju.pt/